Introduction
Tasting all 17 released vintages of Krug’s Clos du Mesnil in the presence of Krug's CEO Maggie Henríquez and friends was a life changing experience. Grateful and humbled to have been part of it, this is as good of a reason I can find to expand this blog beyond Burgundy. That being said, it is impossible to deny that with age these chardonnays actually turn into various shades of Montrachet.
Flight 1: The early days: 1980-1981-1982-1983
Krug Clos du Mesnil (80-81-82-83) . My favourite for current drinking was the 81 that showed an impressive breadth and depth. Rich, biscuity and generous with a remarkably long finish. Second favourite was the 83 that felt like a smaller brother of the 81 with a vibrant orange and zesty character. However strange it might sound but the pristine bottle of 82 was still too young yet with a superb brightness and great potential. The 80 showed the most mature with notes of aged yeast, cereals, orange peel and a touch of oxidation. Beautiful mature chardonnay expression but to be drunk soon. What a flight!
Flight 2: The start of a legend, the inaugural 1979 vintage
The first vintage of Krug's Clos du Mesnil was 1979 which was actually a very good Champagne vintage. It was rightfully served in a flight of its own and it more than lived up to its grand reputation. Sublime nose with a distinct floral note of chamomile and chrysanthemum. Layers of complex flavours with a saline aftertaste. Mesmerizing depth, persistence and freshness. Being a 1979 vintage myself this added an extra dimension to an already perfect bottle of wine. Humbled and moved.
Flight 3: 1985 - 1986 - 1988 - 1989
The 1988 lived up to its reputation and felt exacty like a ten year younger version of the 1979. A touch more fresh fruit with a Puligny-esque profile of sweet limes and minerals. It was my second favourite of the night. The 1985 showed young with a cooler than expected citrusy fruit profile. Some cheesy notes on the palate disappeared with time and the evolution in the glass showed its great potential. The 1986 was easygoing yet lacked some definition with mature notes of hay, corn and baked apples. Unfortunately the 89 wasn't representative as I remember it to be a very generous and fruit forward wine whereas tonight's was leaner with unusual notes of dried seafood.
Flight 4: 1990 - 1992 -1995
The 1990 was an unashamed rockstar with opulent ripe orchard fruits. Stylistically quite different from the older vintages although I do remember a previous bottle of 1989 I tried to be similar.
The 1992 was an interesting contrast being more restrained and driven by a cool citrusy profile with searing acidity counterbalanced by what felt as a relatively high dosage. The 1995 was unfortunately corked but as Maggy said herself, we should be happy the cork taint didn't claim one of the legendary vintages.
Flight 5: 1996 - 1998 - 2000
The 1996 is simply mindblowing with unprecented levels of intensity, concentration, fruit ripeness, toast and acidic punch. An absolute knock out of a wine that despite its relative youth leaves an unforgettable impression. If we'd replicate today's tasting in twenty years I'd put my chips on the 96. For those into white burgs, I'd say the best comparison would be d'Auvenay Chevalier Montrachet. A near impossible act to follow for the 1998 but this is a superb chardonnay vintage and it showed with a pristine ripe fruit profile of white peaches and spice. Very pure and precise with a lovely softness to the texture and acidity. The 2000 is similar to the vintage Krug, a broad shouldered and rich wine. Couldn't quite identify the Mesnil typicity but looking at the ageworthiness of these wines it might very well develop into something great as the substance is there.
Flight 6: 2002 - 2003
The 2003 was true to the vintage with a fruit forward profile of yellow peaches and spicy toast. The 2002 is at this moment largely a sneak preview into a brilliant future. Everything is in the right place but I feel it requires decades to soften and come together. By some distance the least ready wine we were having tonight but that should not really come as a surprise given the vintage and pedigree of this utterly ageworthy wine.
Unforgettable night. Thanks @naradmuni